Deep Pour Epoxy Resin Liquid Glass 0.75 Gallon / 96 oz Kit, 2-4 inch Super Clear Amazing Flow Casting Resin Kit, High Temp Heat UV Resistant Food Safe Epoxy, Bubble Free Low Viscosity

Ok, 5 stars. Why? A great product! It is like glass when solid. It is moderately thin so bubbles come out easily. Ease of use - 3 stars - Might as well know up front, if you are in a hurry, this is not for you. Practice, practice and practice is the key to using this stuff. I probably went through a quart or more just practicing. To back up a bit, this was my first project with it and first time use ever with any clear epoxy. The project was 20”x12’x1.25”. It took multiple mixes and pours, which I did one right after the other. So the cure process was the whole thickness. It does generate a lot of heat. Enough heat that it cause a sheet of plexiglass that I was using as a dust cover over heated and sagged into the resin. I panicked but was able to release the plexiglass from the cured resin with a heat gun and all was OK. My warning is, they say it will heat up, they mean it and be prepared. The cure time is 1 to 2 days at this thickness.Mixing is a big deal with this stuff. When they say mix for 5 min, then pour into another container and mix some more and then mix some more, they mean it. I used wood 1 qt paint sticks, which worked for the 28 oz mixes I did. When I started mixing the resin would turn milky. After a while (over 5 min for me) it would turn clear. But I could still see wispy threads through the mixture. So more mixing. Then there was the pour into a second container and more mixing. At least 10 min of mixing per batch. A trick I found to keep bubble out was to set one of the paint sticks in the mixing container before pouring in the resins. Then pour the resins onto the stick and let it run down the stick. I did this with the base resin and the hardener. And then I did the some thing to pour the mixture into what I was making. Hope this helps.I did practice with a few thin pours (less than a half inch). These took at least 3 days to cure. So, while it could be used for that, it would be better to use their other product.So a great product, but takes slow and careful effort to use.

This stuff is very thin and watery so it penetrates into every little detail of your mold. I used this with a silicone mold with mold release that I got at the local big hobby store. The reproduction quality is great, and leaves very crisp, sharp, edges without any indications of bubbles or anything.It does take 3 days to cure; I didn't realize that when I bought it, but that's ok.

First time epoxy user. easy to use.. pour was beautiful - great product

I was gifted a rare piece of Canadian Redwood that had floated in the Gulf of Mexico for years, and pulled from the Gulf back in 1970. It was full of sea slug holes, and looked beautiful, but was very fragile, in some places most of the wood was missing due to the slug holes. After consideration, a guitar was the only way to go, since the gifting person's dad was there with him in 1970, and was an accomplished guitar player.Acrylic was the only way to go, since I decided to build a Telecaster electric guitar, and needed to encase the wood so it would be stable. In some places the holes go right through, and you can see clearly through them, this stuff is so crystal.This was about a 1 3/4" thick pour, and with all the holes, I knew I needed to put in a thin layer on the bottom of the mold I built, then lay the wood in, and pour the rest. Worked well.The product performed exactly as advertised. Set up nice, crystal clear, some bubbles got caught due to all the hundreds of holes in the wood, but that was to be expected. I just left them, since they were down a ways, and didn't hurt the structural integrity.Actually, it worked a bit faster than I thought, and in about 72 hours it was totally firm, and I peeled off the mold and began finishing the edges and polishing it.What I DIDN'T expect, was after about three additional days, with just the edges of the guitar to polish off and a few light scratches on the back from the mold, was that the product got SO HARD, I found I didn't have a polish or compound in my shop that would touch it. Now let it be said, I do a lot of golf club restoration, woodworking, file, planer blade and knife sharpening in my shop and I have compounds that will move stainless steel. Not this stuff. Once it fully cured, I could router it,(slowly), to make my neck pocket, control area and pickup holes, but polish it? Forget about it. I worked on it for days, and moved maybe .001 of the stuff.So although a great product, you had better get it polished within the first three days of hardening.For the record, I used a digital scale, calibrated, that measures out to a tenth of an ounce. I made sure the product was measured correctly. Been down that "it didn't cure right" road before. Mixing is everything also, and I used a wooden mixer I made on my lathe that matched the taper of the bottom of my containers that would also go into a drill, so I could mix it completely.Curing not a problem - hardening, Whoh...

Our new shower floor is made of 1” aqua colored glass with a zillion grout lines. Three low spots caused water to collect and cause mold. Solution = cleaned every grout line and used this product to seal the entire shower floor, filling the low spots. The results were much better than anticipated. Followed instructions and gave it an extra day to cure. For any who would do the same, I dammed up the drain and poured three quarts of water (equal to the product sent) to test coverage. It came out perfectly the same. Then used the product and used a squeeze to make sure the entire surface was covered and let the product fill the low spots. Perfect outcome. Cover any nearby areas. Use gloves and wash off any you get on skin. Left alone it will burn your akin