American Standard 7301111-0070A Flush Valve Seal Kit

Moved into a rental 6-months ago and was written up by the HOA that we were using too much water. I said to myself "where and what??". Purchased blue dye leak detect tablets and found the culprit to be the American Standard Champion toilet. For initial repair the property owner installed a red colored "k***y" brand valve seal but it only lasted two months before ghost flushing returned. Found these blue American Standard brand seals and they actually feel more supple comparing to the red hardware store brand. Maybe they will last longer. The seals are easy to replace. Some confusion on installation but there are many You***e videos (search "American Standard Champion"). The supplied instructions are cryptic but here are some simple tips for leak-proof and longer-life seals. 1). Wipe off the top of the pipe where the seal makes contact. Slow leaking will sometimes cause sediments to build up on the pipe lip as water passes by the leaky seal. The new seal needs a flat surface to consistently seat and eventually deforms if junk is in the way. No abrasive scrubbing to the lip surface to keep it flat and polished. 2). One of the blue seal's surfaces has a small injection molding imprinted circle (registration mark). The other side does not have this mark so is technically smoother. So note when mounting to flip over the blue seal after inspection and verify "smooth" surface makes the seal on the pipe. See enclosed photo to identify. 3). After properly mounting the new blue seal align the top and bottom valve assembly (poppet) before tighten from the top. There are four notches in the top valve assembly that align with tabs in the bottom part. Just gently twist the top part while holding the bottom and feel for the grooves. Potential source for leaking if not aligned. 4). The small red o-ring that seals the top cap (thumbscrew) was included in my order. Replace that as well if applicable. Fully tighten down the top cap to "detent" position. This also is one of the dreaded areas known for leaking.

This flapper seal for an American Standard toilet was an easy fix for the factory original that had developed a small blister and seeped endlessly. It came quickly and in good shape. The repair took about ten minutes and resulted in a quiet toilet that performed as advertised. The price was right and it fit with no fuss.

I was so floored. I ordered this part and installed the top small o-ring and the blue main seal and the toilet kept leaking around the main seal. I flipped the seal and tried again and at first flush everything was find but then again it leaking. Someone on this board mentioned a trick, and on Youtube someone else demonstrated the trick. The link is below. Basically, when replacing the blue seal you Must align the green bottom cup with the top green cup correctly. The bottom cup is "keyed" in four places, having 4 splines that match 4 indentations on the top cup. To match these with the blue seal sandwiched in-between pull up on the bottom cup gently to give you operating room. (Otherwise it is blind luck whether or not you have matched the cups correctly together.) With the bottom cup up and supported by your hand you can easily rotate the top with seal (note: have the top and seal sitting in contact with the bottom cup with a little gentle hand pressure) until the keys and indents match and set together in place. you will know this happens when the top cup will not rotate any longer. Then tighten the top nut onto the long center bolt (having replaced the top nut 0-ring first) until the nut does not snap anymore and viola you are done. It actually is a great toilet and works perfectly once the seal and cups assembly are mated together correctly =)

so the only reason why this isn't rated 5 stars is because i would prefer to have not had to replace this seal in the first place! this new one works fine, ok and putting it on is pretty simple and quick. methinks i bought the champ4 toilet about 4 - 5 yrs ago and it's been reliable. on occasion, i had noticed the familiar refill song tanks make when replenishing low water levels. instructions suggest that we feel for an imperfection or bubble on the flush valve seal. well, i felt nothing but since it's a 1-piece toilet and there were no other discernible leaks, the only thing left was this seal. after replacement, i could see this imperfection in the old seal but it was so slight i wasn't sure if it was the issue; oh, but IT WAS!! this seal was the perfect fix and while there are cheaper alternatives, i went with as for the small price difference. it's been quiet for over a few months now. . . . well worth it, folks,

Bottom line, this is made by American standard and comes with everything you need. I had bought the generic version at the big box but the O ring didn't come with it. Seemed easy enough to install but removing the wing nut is a challenge, there are two little bumps that keep it from turning. Decided to have plumber install. I ordered this part and returned the other. A quick side note, for some reason a holder for the water fill hose comes with this part. Turns out, if the over fill hose is below the water line, the toilet will self syphon and make it seem the seal has failed. That was the case with my toliet. The plumber that had replaced the water fill control had placed the hose below the water and my toliet was running every 4 mins for about a 1/4 of a cup. Well since the plumber was here, went ahead and replaced the seal. This plumber has done this model several times. When installing, it's tricky to get the raised section into the groove. Plumber just spent time with it and kept looking to make sure the distance outside was even. It took him a few tries to get it right. Personally, I'm so glad I had a plumber do it. This would have been a frustrating project. For those who are die hard DYI, it's probably a no brainer. I used to be that way but when it comes to plumbing and water, I end up on the losing end. Big learning on this project, check that water fill hose and make sure it's above the fill water line. On other types of toilets keeping below the water line makes filling quieter; on this model of toilet it causes syphoning and ghost running water. Might want to check that before changing the seal. BTW, this seal is white and seems to be made of a much better material. Plumber said this appears to be a newer model that takes into account issues with past designs. Also, his feedback was that those non OEM rings at the big box stores are a pain. Plus, if I had purchased this kit through the plumbing company it would have cost me $25. So glad for once, actually got a real non fake part on Amazon or so it seems.

Although the product shows a blue color (as was my original seal) this came as white. The product package had the American Standard ("AS") name/logo, so I will assume it is authentic AS. Seemed to be the same thickness and quality. Installation was quite easy, and easy to follow instructions were included. The black plastic screw on top of the piston did not want to come lose, so I used pliers to gently free it up past the indent, then it came easy after that. The instructions don't tell you this, but be sure you align the notches on the top half of the piston with the bottom, when re-assembling. Oh, and don't forget to replace the O-ring on the plastic screw (included). With the previous seal, I could start to see the level drop after about 30 minutes after the tank was filled, when looking at the water level at the overflow tube. With the new seal, even after a few hours, the level appeared to stay the same, so I am confident this solved the problem. Incidentally, I bought my Champion 4 toilet back in 2009 and had never replaced this seal until now. I had read that it needs to be replaced every 3-5 years, but my original lasted 11 years. Just in case, I bought two additional seal kits so I would have them for future need. The price is very reasonable so it didn't break the bank.

Lots of confusion by prior reviewers. I'm replacing a blue silicon seal... item description shows blue picture and says new one is clear (sometimes called white), but I received a RED seal. Some say the original seals were defective, and there exists an updated seal (who knows what color). The RED is harder than silicon (maybe it's rubber). Easy to replace, I coated it with silicon grease prior to install. No leaks after install, but I'm waiting to see. I had 1 or 2 ghost flushes per day with old seal. Toilet has been installed several years. I'm monitoring it to see what happens over time. Seems to be working good right now. It has been about a month, and it's leaking again. BAD PRODUCT !!!

After 11.5 years (when my new toilet was installed) I caught it topping off (ghost flushing) every 5-6 hours or so. I tried running my fingers around the gasket seal edges, but no change, so I ordered this repair kit and installed it within a couple of days of receiving it. It topped off one more time about 15 minutes after I was done, but it hadn’t been flushed since refilling the tank. After flushing it, it hasn’t topped off again! This is the correct kit for either the old or new versions of Champion toilets. Instructions are included for both types and it’s easy to tell the difference between them. The instructions are clear, but assume at least some familiarity with what you are attempting to do. The new gasket is clear and translucent, apart from that it appears identical to the original blue one I removed. The injection molding point and a batch number (I assume) on one side are no where near where the gasket seals, so it doesn’t matter which side is “up”. The instructions make no mention of orientation; it isn’t important! Replace the included small red o-ring as well (if applicable) as it could also be leaking. One thing not mentioned, but I believe to be important. Rinse all sealing edges (that make direct contact with the new gasket and o-ring) by running a wet finger along them (including the inner surface of the conical hole that the o-ring seats in.) If that’s not possible, rinse with running water (mostly applies to the groove that the o-ring seats in.) Only use sealant if necessary, but be aware that this is likely because there is some damage along the edge of the sealing surface. My old gasket looks “old”, but exhibits no signs of the problems mentioned by others (primarily “bubbles” filled with water that resulted in the loss of a good seal.) The “new and improved” refill hose clip solved the only issue that I’d had with this toilet prior to this. The small cotter pin clip that secures the pull chain to the flush lever would sometimes hang up on the fill hose, leaving the flush valve open until it was disengaged. The new refill hose clip moves the hose up and back, allowing for ample clearance between it and flush lever cotter pin. Problem solved! I’ve included photos of the front and back sides of the 11.5 year old original gasket and o-ring that I removed.

My Champion 4 Max toilets were experiencing the ghost flushing problem that a lot of people are complaining about online. With this part, and a YouTube video explaining how to install, I was able to save hundreds of dollars in repair costs if I had called a plumber. There is a bit of a trick to making sure that you have the large gasket properly installed. The two pieces it fits between have to click firmly together to make sure the seal is tight enough. It is easy to get fooled into thinking that you have done it right, so if it continues to leak after installing, have another look, you might just need to re-seat it and tighten it again.

Fixed my American Standard toilet 'ghost flushing' issue, have had no problems since. Ensure you follow advice given regarding aligning the ridges into notches on the poppet assembly and things should go well for you. I did receive a clear seal, not blue, but I'm not overly worried about that. It fit well and has solved the issue thus far. The OEM seal I removed had at least 6 bubbles in it, which is the cause of the leaking issue to begin with. We'll see how long this one holds up, hopefully longer than the original.

I purchased this because I was told it was a genuine OEM American standard replacement part. Well, it does fit and it does sealed and there is no more leak. However, the colour of the seal that within the package was opaque, whereas the OEM seal is supposed to be coloured with a light blue tint. So who knows I guess time will tell if this will last three months, six months or a year. The package did arrive quickly and I have no complaints about the contents of the package. There are videos on YouTube. They give a better understanding how to replace the seal and I recommend you watch them. Four stars because I am wondering if it is a genuine, OEM part, and four stars for value. Because what you get in my opinion, should not cost that much.

My American Standard Champion Pro 4 toilet started to randomly fill every half hour. It is about four years old. The problem is a bubbled flush gasket. This OEM replacement gasket solved the problem.

Most reviews are written right after the customer receives the item. Of course, when something is new, it should be perfect. I’m writing this 1.5 years after I received the item. It failed, and I’ve had to resort to purchase it again. This time , I’m buying the cheaper flapper ring at 1/5th the price, because it could not be much worse than this piece of junk.