Sparkling Water Maker, Commercial Soda Maker Fizzy Drink Machine Carbonator for Home, Countertop Ice Water Cooler Dispenser and Room Black

E4 Problem SOLVED:I own two of these machines. The first one failed and I repaired it as I describe below, but first, here's the answer to the "E4" problem:E4 has two meanings. It can mean that the chiller got too cold. If that's the case, hold the 'snowflake' button down until a number flashes (the temperature setting). You can then used the other two buttons to change the set-point up or down. Increase it by a degree or two. Since I've done that, I haven't seen an E4.I was resetting my machine when the E4 came up until it started making bad noises which I found out were as a result of the pump failing.Here is how to replace the pump:Unplug the unit and disconnect the water and gas lines. The top comes off first. Remove two screws on the back and lift the back up and slide the top towards the back of the unit.The front comes off next. Two screws are underneath and two screws are inside the unit on top. Removed it slowly. You'll see three tubes that go into a Y connector. Remove the three tubes, remove the ribbon cable, and remove the line that goes to the tray for condensate.Remove the sheet metal 'wrap' that goes around the back and two sides. Three screws are in the back, 2 or 4 are underneath towards the front of the unit.The pump is mounted in the front of the unit and there are two tubes to disconnect and 4 nuts. Carefully mark any tubes and connectors you disconnect to get access, so you know where they go when you're done. Follow the pump wire and clip any wire ties that are holding it. Disconnect the pump wire, the tubes, and the nuts and remove it.Here is the pump I used:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DDTBTBVQ2025 Upgraded Betollo 6800 Booster Pump Kit, Suitable for Household Reverse Osmosis Water Filtration System Standards or Manifolds up to 100 GPD,Bring a High-Voltage SwitchYou'll need to clip the connector and a length of wire from the old pump and connect it to the new one. I soldered the wires, and put shrink tubing over the soldered connections, and another shrink tubing over the whole splice. If you don't know what you're doing, get help.I moved the angled water connectors from the old pump to the new one using some Teflon tape. The bracket on this pump fits the soda machine.Install the pump with the nuts and reconnect the tubes to it. Reconnect any other tubes you may have moved out of the way. Run the wire to the control box and connect it.I connected the front panel ribbon cable and tested everything before assembling.Replace the 3 sided 'wrap'. The three screws in the back seemed to be best to put in first to get the front/bottom screws aligned.Replace the front connecting the three tubes, the condensate line and the ribbon cable. I 'tensioned' the top bracket a bit with one screwdriver while I tightened the screws with another.Then replace the top.The plastic parts (front and top) have 'fins' that engage slots in the metal frame, so, it's a little tricky to get everything lined up. Be patient and work slowly.Once it's all together, you should probably leave the unit sit in an upright position for 24 hours before running it long term as you may need to put the unit in different positions while working on it and the oil needs to settle in the refrigerant system.I'm giving this a 3(ish) star review. As it turns out, the new pump runs great and is maybe even quieter than the stock pump, but, as it turns out this didn't fix the E4 problem. At the top of this review I describe what fixes that.On the other hand, I cannot find any competing product, so, look at me, I bought another one. Now I have an 'upstairs' and a 'downstairs' soda maker.From "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance":Our narrator says to the professor, “You know, the best instruction manual that I’ve ever seen was for a bicycle. The instructions began with the simple phrase:“Assembly of Japanese bicycle require great peace of mind.”